Introduction

Bicol Express is a popular Filipino dish known for its creamy, spicy, and savory flavor. Named after the famous train service from Manila to the Bicol region, this dish hails from the Bicol provinces in the southeastern part of Luzon, which are famous for their love of spicy food and the abundant use of coconut milk (gata) in their cooking.

The dish is a fusion of rich coconut cream, pork, shrimp paste, and fiery chili peppers, making it a delight for those who enjoy bold flavors. It’s a dish that embodies the essence of Bicolano cuisine, where heat and creaminess balance perfectly.

History and Origins

Despite being named after the Bicol Express train, the origins of the dish are often debated. Some culinary historians claim it was created in Manila by a Bicolana cook who wanted to introduce the flavors of her home to the capital, while others believe it originated in Bicol itself. What remains certain is that the dish gained popularity across the Philippines and is now synonymous with Bicolano cuisine.

In Bicol, the locals are known for their love of spicy food, primarily due to the region’s climate, which is conducive to growing sili (chili peppers). Additionally, coconut is abundant, and it plays a central role in their cooking. This combination of coconut and chili forms the backbone of many of Bicol’s traditional dishes, with Bicol Express being the most famous among them.

Ingredients

Traditional Bicol Express consists of several key ingredients:

• Pork belly (liempo): The rich fat content of the pork belly adds to the creamy texture of the dish.
• Coconut milk (gata): This is the heart of the dish, giving it a creamy, rich consistency that tempers the heat of the chilies.
• Shrimp paste (bagoong alamang): A salty, umami-packed ingredient that enhances the flavor of the dish.
• Chili peppers (siling labuyo or siling haba): These are responsible for the heat. Bicolanos traditionally use a lot of chili in their version, but the spiciness can be adjusted based on preference.
• Garlic, onion, and ginger: Aromatics that provide a depth of flavor to the dish.
• Salt and pepper: Basic seasonings that bring the dish together.

How to Make Bicol Express

Here’s a simplified version of how to cook Bicol Express:

1. Prepare the ingredients: Cut the pork belly into bite-sized cubes. Chop onions, garlic, and ginger. Slice the chilies.
2. Sauté the onions, garlic, and ginger in a pot until fragrant.
3. Add the pork and cook until it starts to brown.
4. Add the shrimp paste and stir well, allowing it to incorporate with the pork.
5. Pour in the coconut milk and let the mixture simmer for 30-40 minutes until the pork is tender and the coconut milk thickens.
6. Add the chili peppers towards the end of cooking. You can adjust the quantity based on your tolerance for heat.
7. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
8. Serve hot with rice.

Variations

While the classic Bicol Express recipe remains a favorite, there are several variations:

• Seafood Bicol Express: Some recipes substitute pork with seafood like shrimp, squid, or fish to give a lighter but still flavorful dish.
• Vegetarian Bicol Express: For a plant-based alternative, tofu or mushrooms can be used instead of pork.
• Less Spicy Version: For those who can’t handle too much heat, the amount of chili can be reduced, or the seeds can be removed from the peppers.
• Dry Bicol Express: Some versions cook the dish longer until the coconut milk evaporates, resulting in a drier, oilier version that is equally delicious.

Cultural Significance

Bicol Express is more than just a dish—it represents the culture of the Bicolano people. The abundance of sili and coconut in the Bicol region, combined with the people’s penchant for intense, flavorful dishes, makes Bicol Express a culinary symbol of the region.

The dish also reflects the Filipino love for bold, complex flavors. The interplay of spice from the chilies, creaminess from the coconut milk, and umami from the shrimp paste creates a flavor profile that is uniquely Filipino. It’s a celebration of the country’s rich natural resources and diverse culinary traditions.

Bicol Express Today

In modern times, Bicol Express has become a staple in Filipino households across the country, with each family adding their unique touch to the dish. It is also served in many Filipino restaurants, both locally and internationally, as part of the growing global recognition of Filipino cuisine.

Whether you enjoy it fiery hot or with a milder heat, Bicol Express is a dish that will surely warm the heart—and the taste buds—of anyone who tries it.

Conclusion

Bicol Express is a testament to the rich culinary traditions of the Bicol region, marrying the creamy and spicy elements that make Filipino cuisine so distinctive. Whether you’re a fan of spicy food or looking for a comforting, flavorful dish, Bicol Express is a must-try that captures the essence of Bicolano cooking.